Paris, for the Last Time

So I have this list of all the things I will miss when I no longer live in Belgium.  My list includes things like waffles… and waiters who wear starched shirts, black vests and long white aprons… and doner kebabs… and the line up of French fry sauces at friteries. (Wow, that’s a lot of food references.)  But something I’ll miss more than all of those things (even Andalouse sauce) is traveling through Europe.

Eiffel Tower

We’ve seen quite a bit since we’ve been here.  That list on the right includes most of the countries we’ve spent time in.  But since my favorite country to travel through is France, we had to go back to Paris one more time.

Included in our weekend’s sights were the Eiffel Tower (naturally), Napoleon’s tomb, some time spent in the Luxembourg Gardens (including playing with mini sailboats), a quick stop into the Galeries Lafayette to gaze at the beautiful ceilings, and a trip to the top of the Arc de Triomphe…

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Day two saw us wandering around Île de la Cité, with visits to the bird market, Sainte Chapelle (please go see it if you’re in Paris… it is breathtaking in the sunlight), the bouquinistes, and a stroll along the Seine to find a geocache or two.  After one last gaze at the Eiffel Tower, it was time to catch our train home.

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But, wait!  I haven’t been in the catacombs yet!  All the more reason to go back.  See you again, Paris!

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Les Voiliers du Jardin du Luxembourg

One would think that, having never been to the Louvre or the Georges Pompidou Centre, they might be on the top of my list of things to do on a weekend in Paris.  One would be mistaken.

The Catacombs?  The Moulin Rouge?  Wrong.

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The one thing that I have always wanted to do in Paris yet hadn’t been able to accomplish?  Watch my children push tiny boats with a stick.

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When your children grow up with a French speaker for a father, you tend to accumulate French language picture books.  Often, those books tell of children wandering the streets of Paris with a baguette over one shoulder and a red balloon in their hand, with knee socks pulled up high and friendly nun by their side, leading the way.  And you can’t make it through a children’s book about Paris without a mention of the boats of Luxembourg Gardens.

Les voiliers du Jardin du Luxembourg are a fleet of small wooden sailboats that children can rent by the half hour to float in the grand bassin, an octagonal pond in front of the Palais de Luxembourg.  The handmade boats have been floating since 1927, their only means of movement the wind or the kids who push them with a bamboo stick out into the water, then chase them around the pond, pushing them back out after they bump into the side.

On a sunny Saturday afternoon, every boat is in the water, the edges of the pond filled with a constant stream of children running back and forth and back again, keeping an eye and a stick on their given sailboat.  Each boat is marked with a different country and proudly flies its flag, ensuring you always know which ship is yours.

Sailboats of the Luxembourg Gardens, Paris

And so, this past Saturday, after many times trying, we finally made it to the Luxembourg Gardens when the boat man was actually there.  My technology loving kids, unexpectedly, had a really good time and were sad when their time was up and they had to turn in their boats.

Sailboats of the Luxembourg Gardens, Paris

Thank you, Ben, for taking us back to Paris one more time, so that I could finally see the kids (before they get too old) play with the boats of the Luxembourg Gardens.

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South of France, part two

Our rental house this summer was in a tiny town called Plan de la Tour, very near Sainte Maxime and just across the bay from Saint Tropez.  And guess who lives in our tiny village…

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But celebrity spotting would have to wait.  We wanted to go to the beach.  And have fruity drinks.

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Day two saw us searching for a spot in a calanque.  Leave it to us to inadvertently choose one that was popular with the “naturists” (read:naked folks).  The kids spent a little time giggling, then we all headed into the water to spy on the fish.  The rest of the time was spent trying to figure out which celebrities were on the enormous yachts anchored just off the beach.

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Maybe if we take a walk through Plan de la Tour we’ll catch a glimpse of Johnny Depp…

Johnny's driveway. No Johnny.

Johnny’s driveway. No Johnny.

Damn.

Every day was a different beach.  With so many to choose from it’s not hard to find new ones to explore.

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One morning we hit a brocante then spent the remainder of the day wandering St. Tropez.  Still no celebrities.  Damn.

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How many mulit-million euro yachts can you fit into a tiny harbor designed for mini fishing boats? I would not care to be the harbor master in St. Tropez.

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The weekend we arrived our town was hosting the World Championship of petanque.  And while I’m fairly sure that no one travelled from any further away than, say, Marseilles, it was entertaining to listen to the announcer from our back patio.  I mentioned the town was small, right?  Anyway, we took advantage of the local petanque courts having been made all pretty, properly lined and swept and patriotic, and took our sets downtown to play where the world champions play.

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Our final beach day brought us to the best beach of all.  Up a mountain, then down the other side (the long way due to a rock slide) landed us in La Canadel, or “glitter beach” as we dubbed it.  When we arrived the beach was fairly empty, owing to the French habit of hiding inside or at petanque courts or at cafes in the high heat of the day.  Fewer people meant the water was still.  Still water meant the bits of mica that run off the mountain collect at the bottom of the clear water looking for all the world like someone dumped vast amounts of silver glitter in the water.  Walk or swim through it and it floats around you, shining and throwing rainbows.

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Add to that a small cove perfect for snorkeling that allowed us to sneak up on an octopus and you have the perfect beach afternoon.  I very nearly refused to leave.  Knowing that I won’t return to the Med next summer made leaving even harder.

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We may not have spotted any celebrities, but we saw plenty.  And did plenty.  And there was still plenty to see and do between the south of France and home.

 

South of France, part one

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Our original plans for our summer vacation included an island in Greece.  Then the Greek economy tanked and we had to do a quick change because spending a week on an island with banks closed, ATMs rationing cash and the possibility that our credit cards wouldn’t work might not make for a very relaxing week.  So, we adjusted our thinking and chose to spend ten days in the south of France.  Not a bad plan, right?  Bonus… we’ve already been there so we knew we would love every second of it.

So we packed up the new roof box, squeezed too many clothes into suitcases and headed out with a slightly more relaxed plan than usual, allowing ourselves three days to travel to our rental home so we could actually stop and see things along the way.  First stop, Annecy.

Ben had already been to Annecy, as is the case with so many of our vacation destinations, so he could lead the way to the places we should see.  My favorite part was our quick stroll by the lake on our way to dinner.  The lake in Annecy has the clearest water I have ever seen not coming out of a tap.  Even the rain clouds forming overhead couldn’t change how beautiful the water was.

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Martins can’t spend a long period of time in the car without winding up in the mountains.  Those Alps just seem to be between us and anyplace else we want to be so why not take advantage of climbing them a bit without having to pull on pounds worth of snow gear?  Finding a geocache on top was our goal so up we climbed to the music of cowbells. Halfway up, our path was blocked by cows and then we discovered that the cache was missing, but, man, those views!  After our hike, we cajoled our car into climbing the highest mountain in France, not without some complaining, but it did surprisingly well for a Hyundai with over 100,000 miles on it.

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Our nightly stop was in Briançon, the highest city in Europe.  The lower city itself was, you know, meh, but the old town on top of the hill was beautiful and the perfect setting for dinner and a view of the sunset over the Alps.

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A few more hours in the car landing us in Arles and our first real taste of the heat of the south.  Our hotel was situated next door to the Roman amphitheater (built in the year 90.  Ninety!) so, an hour after arriving in the city we found ourselves seated there, watching a Provençal-style bullfight.  Not really bullfights, they are called courses camarguaises, where the goal is to pull a thread off the bull’s horns.  Not really my cup of tea but the boys seemed to enjoy themselves.  Arles is a beautiful city.

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The following morning, we arrived!  Beach!  I could absolutely live in the south of France.

Normandy, part three

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No drive through Normandy is complete without a stop at Mont St. Michel.  We arrived in the evening, which I strongly suggest.  You do what you can to beat the crowds.  Stores were beginning to close but the restaurants were all open and hopping.  We found one that could seat us close enough to the window to watch the crazy tide come in.

We left the island as the sun was setting.  Fairy. Tale.

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On our drive home the next day we followed a bit of the “cider route”, a 25 mile trail passing by orchards, cider producers and Calvados distillers.  A lunchtime stop found us in Beuvron-en-Auge, a tiny town labeled as ‘Les Plus Beaux Villages de France”.  Yes, we stumbled upon one of the Most Beautiful Villages In France.  And that is saying something.

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After lunch at a crêperie, a quick (and I mean quick, the place is tiny) stroll around the town and a stop to buy a few bottles of local cider, we climbed back into the car and headed home.

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After two and a half years living in and traveling around Europe, my favorite country to visit is still France.  You cannot go wrong, no matter which direction you turn.  Which is a good thing because we have a long drive, north to south, coming up.

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Normandy, part two

The beaches of Normandy.  The turn of World War II.  Allies.  Battles.  Liberation.

We visited as many sights as we could in just a few days. Pegasus Bridge, Mulberry Beach, the American cemetery, the Canadian cemetery, Omaha Beach, Sainte-Mère-Église, and Pointe du Hoc.  Bunkers, graves and stained glass church windows that portray American paratroopers and military insignia. The French keep watch over all of these places and continue to honor those that fought to free them. I’ve never seen so many American flags outside of America.

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War is ghastly.  It’s hard for me to even think about what happened here not so long ago.  But I’m thankful for the chance to have seen these places.

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Normandy, part one

With 100 degree temperatures forecast for our area of Belgium, indeed most of inland Europe, Ben and I high-fived each other that we had chosen this weekend to get away.

We left Wednesday afternoon for the Normandy region of France.  It was 96 degrees in Mons.  When we arrived at our first stop in Etretat the temperature had dropped into the mid 70s, and that’s a trade I will gladly take.

Etretat is a very cute beachside town and a perfect place to start a Normandy vacation. We took a stroll on the rocky beach, nearly got wiped out by a sudden, unexpected wave at sunset, collected stones before seeing the sign asking us not to, then tried to fall asleep to the not so quiet screams of the local sea gulls.  So loud.  All night long.  The next day started drizzly but we headed to the top of the cliff to check out the view and the tiny museum dedicated to Etretat during the war years.  The museum docent even pointed out himself in a photo of a local school celebrating the liberation of their town.

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 Beach?  check.  World War II history?  check.  And both of those reasons were why we were there.

As an American family, especially one with a military member, it seemed like a necessity to visit the Normandy beaches before leaving Europe and I’m very glad we did.  I only wish I could have done it at the age of 14 so that I might have had a fighting chance to get a better understanding of (and a higher grade in) the history we were required to study in high school.  So now my kids have no excuse.  But more on that later.

Honfleur

Our next stop was Honfleur, which was nice to finally see as we currently have a painting, done by Ben’s grandfather, of the Honfleur harbor hanging over our mantle.  And the original Bonpapa is in good company.  Artists have always flocked to the city to paint the port and it’s unusually tall quayside buildings.  The city is now full of galleries dedicated to local art.  And nautical striped shirts.

Later that day we arrived in Arromanches and spent the evening on the beach.  Dragging nets through the water produced enough fun creatures for Ben to label the bucket a perfect bouillabaisse, but the kids decided to set their new friends free before he could boil them up.  This area is well known for its extreme tides and it was quite surprising at first to see hundreds of feet of beach get swallowed up while we were playing.

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Also surprising about the beach is your first sighting of it as you drive into town.  Arromanches was the town chosen by the Allies during World War II to hold the temporary harbor for unloading supplies (and trucks and tanks and people).  Within the week after D Day an entire harbor was floated over from England, sunk into place and made operational.  Because who needs to fight for an already existing harbor when you can drop one into place in no time?  Unbelievable engineering.  And a truly eerie sight when you see the huge pieces still lying there on the beach and just off the shore.

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For the next two days we gave the kids their first lessons about the war.  Many more pictures to come.

 

Princess Leia and les Pêcheurs de Lune

Living in so many places in the fourteen years that I’ve been married to Ben, we have gotten to know a lot about where we want to eventually settle down.  You learn so much about what you will and won’t accept in the future, when you actually get to choose where you’ll be, rather than letting the Navy choose where you’ll be.  You learn things like… you want sidewalks in your neighborhood, so you don’t have to stroll in the street.  You want a front porch.  You want a downtown with cafés and stores you actually want to shop in, not just ones that sell t-shirts to tourists.  You want four seasons.  And, if the best thing you can say about a place is how close it is to somewhere else (I’m looking at you, Meridian, Mississippi), you should really just live in that other place.

But the Navy still chooses for us.  And it chose Mons, Belgium.

And the thing about Mons is, it’s really close to a lot of other awesome places.

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Some strong feelings, there.

Our neighbors don’t like us much.  That’s their own fault because they don’t know how awesome we are.  Because, even though we live, like, six feet from their front door, they don’t speak to us because that is the Belgian way.  Other than not knowing about our awesomeness, they also don’t like the fact that we don’t usually have a perfectly manicured lawn.  And that is because we travel as much as we can on weekends, prime lawn care time.

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 This past weekend we chose to visit Paris, because, who wouldn’t?  But also because Sunday was the fourth of May.  Star Wars day.  May the Fourth Be With You!  And currently showing in Paris is “Star Wars Identities”, a traveling exhibition of original props and artwork from all the Star Wars movies.

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Who wouldn’t drive two and a half hours to see R2-D2?  Or Han Solo in carbonite?  Or Princess Leia’s slave costume?  Did you know that Yoda’s eyes were modeled after Albert Einstein’s?  Or that Jabba the Hut was originally supposed to have legs?  Or that the Rebellion pilot’s helmet masks were tinted yellow to hide the fact that the actors were so hot that their makeup would melt off their faces?  The things you learn when you travel…

Our tickets for the Star Wars exhibition weren’t until late afternoon so to kill time until then we visited some museums.  Just kidding!  We headed straight for Le Marché aux Puces de Saint-Ouen!  The famous Paris flea market.

A quick rundown of the market…  The flea market has been in it’s current location for about a century, after having been run out of the city proper by law enforcement due to its tendency to attract pick-pockets and thieves.  The moon fishermen (pêcheurs de lune, sounds more romantic in French, no?), named for their nighttime jaunts through the Paris alleys and trashcans, set up camp in the Porte de Clignancourt, just outside the city walls, to continue selling their wares.  There it stayed and is now one of the largest flea market in the world.  You can find anything from postcards to staircases depending on which market area you choose to visit. 

A few warnings.  Don’t get stuck outside the true market, where the street vendors selling stolen electronics, counterfeit brands, and jeans, oh so many jeans, set up.  Definitely be aware of pick-pockets here, and in the true markets as well. Be aware of the many No Camera signs, they really don’t want you photographing their stuff.   Also, if you are looking for honest antiques or have money to burn, this is a great place to find what you’re looking for.  On the other hand, many of the smaller items, the true vide grenier (empty attic) stuff that you will see can be had for ten times less at smaller village markets.  Literally ten times less.  The wooden trays that I pay no more than three Euros for at local brocantes were being sold for 25 Euro.

Crazy prices or not, the Paris flea market is a spectacular place to spend a beautiful day.  Checking out the stalls filled with anything vintage you can imagine, watching the sellers have lively discussions over their lunches of bread, cheese and bottles of wine, or plastic-surgery spotting on the rich, middle aged American women who have come to the market to fill their new McMansion… so much to do at the marché aux puces.

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Paris may have everything else, but Belgium has the cheap flea markets.  Thanks, Navy, for sending us to Mons!  Though you could have found us some nicer neighbors…

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Awesome.

 

Paris

Paris from above

Paris is just too beautiful.  I absolutely adore just walking down any street.  Any street at all.  The white buildings that set such a different mood than the dark grey stone ones of Belgium.  The ornate, wrought iron railings that seem to line every window, that would be holding back red geraniums if it were any season other than winter.  The art nouveau everything, from train stations to lampposts.  I have a tendency to walk around with my mouth open, staring at everything.  And that’s all on just the outside.

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Street of the Fishing Cat

Street of the Fishing Cat

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We tried twice to get into the catacombs.  Didn’t happen.  You can’t buy tickets ahead of time and the line both times we tried was hours long.  When you’re only in town for two days, that wait is just too long.  So instead, we wandered.  And rode the metro.  I love the metro and how each station has it’s own personality.  Take the metro in Washington D.C. and every station is that blah grey, lit from below making it a little bit spooky.  In Paris, you never know what you’ll see when those doors slide open.  Or hear, actually.  We passed by a saxophone player in one station, a harpist in another, and a mini orchestra in yet another.
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Day two saw us try the catacombs, give up on the catacombs, then just wander.  Through the Luxembourg Gardens, pass into the St-Germain-des-Prés neighborhood, then over Le Pont de l’Archevêché to see Notre Dame.  We chose to cross this specific bridge for a reason.  Perhaps you’ve heard of the Bridge of Locks?

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Sometime around the year 2000, couples began attaching padlocks, with their initials carved into them, onto the bridge. Then they toss the keys into the river.  It’s not the only love lock bridge in the world, but it’s pretty impressive.  There is absolutely no bridge space left and the locks are now being attached to each other.  In the twenty minutes we were standing there, we saw three separate couples attach their locks.  How the bridge has not collapsed into the river is beyond me.  But we weren’t only there to gawk at the locks.

There’s a geocache hidden among the locks.  And we found it!  And we didn’t just find it for ourselves.  We realized that as we were signing the log, there was a German group looking at us, waiting to hop on the cache as soon as we left.  It’s a pretty popular place… for loving couples and geocachers, alike.

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And so another weekend in Paris ended.  We will be back.  Maybe with a lock?  Maybe to see the catacombs?  Maybe to actually make it inside the Louvre?  It’s only two hours down the road, so we’ll be back to do it all.

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Summer Vacation, part four

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We may have left the south of France but we still had plenty to see on our way home.  We took a longer route home to hit some different places on our way.  First stop, Lago Maggiore in Italy.  The lake region is right on the border with Switzerland and includes Lake Como, home of George Clooney.  We didn’t see George but we did find an enormous amount of sea glass (lake glass?).  Either lake dwellers are serious litter bugs or, probably more likely the case, they don’t bother to collect it.  No matter.  More for me!

We headed out to see a bit of the town before dinner and stopped for a drink.  The kids became fascinated with a Pringles dispenser so we had some time to enjoy our little snack and very, very strong drinks.

Moving out we wandered through the winding streets, visited a church or two, then decided it was time again for a swim in the hotel pool.

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We found dinner right outside our hotel, pizza and pasta, of course.  Come on, it’s Italy.  Followed by gelato.  Naturally.

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The next day we had no plans to drive through mountain passes, a good plan considering the little rider in the back who so easily gets carsick.  Unfortunately we hit a bit of traffic.  Which resulted in a complete standstill.

So into the mountains it is!  Sorry L.

The views, though….

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Ever written your name in the snow in August?

Mountain driving finally behind us, we spent the night in Colmar, in the Alsace region of France.  A very pretty town that we will have to revisit as, by then, I think we were all looking forward to getting home.  Some day we’ll be back to wander the streets, sightsee and shop but it was time.

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So to recap:

Family members sunburned-4

Pool days-11

Beach days-6

Grilled dinners eaten by the pool-5

Bottles of Provence rosé purchased-9

Days carsick from mountain driving-10

Petanque games watched-3 consecutive

Petanque games played-2

Number of air conditioned bedrooms-0

Jazz concerts attended-1

Geocaches found-3

Countries passed through-5

Bono sightings-0

Yay for family vacations!

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